I might have a broken motherboard. Before I bite the bullet and replace it, I wanted to get a second opinion.

Associate
Joined
4 Feb 2022
Posts
20
Location
United Kingdom
Edit: For now I have bought an onboard speaker, which should arrive within 2 days. Hopefully there will be some kind of error code so that I can get to the bottom of the issue. Any advice still very much appreciated

Hi. So as the title says, I believe my motherboard may be broken. I really don't have the knowledge nor experience to say it with 100% certainty, so I'll just talk you through the predicament. I'd really appreciate some advice because I'm at my wits' end by this point.

List of relevant parts: Gigabyte B660m motherboard; MSI MAG Forge 100M case; Corsair RM550x PSU

I recently acquired parts to build a computer. All seemed to be going well, until I had a lot of trouble with the screw for the M.2 cover on my motherboard being stupidly, outrageously tight. Tight enough that the screw was immediately stripped when attempting to unscrew it. I was stuck, unable to go any further with the building process (or so I thought), and I struggled to find any contact details on the website I bought the motherboard from. I thought my journey had ended right there.

Eventually, I was finally able to get the screw loose by supergluing another, larger bolt to the head. It was the perfect size to slot over the screw, and now that I had some extra purchase, I was able to use a set of pliers to loosen the screw and continue with the build. There is very little chance of the superglue having touched any other part of the motherboard - I used a very small droplet, placing it inside of the bolt hole, and the bolt fit snugly on top of the screw. At no point did the screw stick to the M.2 slot or any other part of the circuitry.

About three weeks had already passed by this point, as I could never seem to find the tools I needed. But eventually I got the screw off, got the rest of the components of the PC into place.

I turn on the PSU and press the power button. The case lights up, all four fans (2 front, 1 rear, 1 on CPU) all spin... and less than half a second later the power cuts out again with an audible "ping" from the PSU.

Okay, I think, lets do some research.

I find a video that details almost exactly the same problem as what I'm having, and it goes through the process of checking each individual component to see if it's causing the problem. I follow along. In the end, the person in this video gets to the PSU, and suggests that this is the problem. A conclusion I was about ready to come to myself, as it seemed logical that the object providing power to the motherboard would be the thing not powering it, so to speak. I go through a couple of other tutorials and guides, all of them seem to point to the same problem: the PSU. A family friend of ours, who happens to know more about computers than I ever will, also comes over and checks it out. He, too, agrees that logically the PSU is the problem. Frustrating, since this PSU is fresh out of the box, but hey. Faults happen from time to time, and by the looks of it, I am far from the first person to have issues with this particular PSU being faulty straight from the start.

So I talk to Corsair. I arrange a replacement, and after a looong time contacting them back and forth, correcting and clarifying and going into more and more detail, finally, I get a replacement PSU. It's been 2 or 3 months since the start of this whole ordeal by now.

A few hours ago, I connected the new PSU and pressed the power button. The case lights up, again. The fans spin, again. And then they all turn off half a second later. Again. The PSU doesn't "ping" now, so... kind of an improvement, I suppose?

Now well and truly feeling at the end of my tether, I went to bed to brood like an angsty teenager. About an hour ago, I finally got up and, with the passion of someone who has an entire career resting on the back of a PC that refuses to work (You know, like me), I begin to dismantle the entire thing. I take all components off of the motherboard. I dismount the motherboard from the case and lay it flat on a clean surface. I unplug each and every wire that I'd painstakingly spent a few hours of my life ensuring were in the right place, until only 3 things remain: The main 24-Pin PSU wire, the power switch and the power LEDs. I haven't removed the processor this time but best believe I tested the motherboard without it attached during the first wave of problems, and so there's little chance that it could be that. The only reason I've even kept the switch and LEDs active is so that I can get some kind of visual stimuli to indicate whether or not the PC has turned on.

I pressed the power button. Wouldn't you know it, the PC turned on!

And then it turned off again, because OF COURSE IT DID -.-

(Listen, I'm coping with the pain through humour. Please... humour me :3)

And so, that brings us to where I am now. Sitting here, staring at the most barebones setup for a PC that you'll ever see, and on the verge of a breakdown because I really, really cannot afford to replace that motherboard.

I would contact the seller and try to arrange a refund or a replacement, but the board has been tampered with now. There's a bolt superglued to it, after all, and besides that it's been months since the original purchase. I have evidence of the emails back and forth with Corsair support in the hopes of replacing the PSU, but somehow I doubt that's going to be enough. Chances are, the moment they know I involved superglue into the equation, they're not going to consider replacing it. Unless I'm somehow mistaken and the PC parts industry is much more generous than most.

So.

When I first got the PC build all sorted (If you can see my post history, it's there), the person who suggested this particular PSU mentioned that it might be a little slow for if I choose to upgrade later on, adding a GPU and such, but it should run fine with the current setup.

Being the overthinker that I am, I can't help but wonder if that could potentially be the issue.

When I was returning the PSU, I considered asking Corsair if they would be willing to instead send me the next level (650x I think?) if I paid the price difference between the two. After it had already taken so damn long to get the replacement sorted in the first place, though, I ultimately decided not to do that. Had I made the suggestion, and had they accepted it, do you think that could have made the difference between this PC working and not working? Could it be that the PSU still is the problem that's causing the PC not to function?

I'm just at a loss for what to do, now. Unless the above does count, it really does look like the motherboard is the source of my problems - unless the case is somehow causing a power short, which I struggle to believe could be it. Should I bite the bullet and look into ordering a replacement motherboard? Maybe sell the other one as spares to make up for the crater that'll put in my bank?

I would be putting myself in debt to family members, making the choice between a PC that will help me build my career and a month of actually having money - which wouldn't kill me. I can rely on people around me to survive until next payday, but it would be a pretty miserable existence. And even through all that, it might not solve the issue. Honestly, by this point, with the way my luck's been going? I don't think I'd even be surprised if I spend however much money replacing the motherboard and it still doesn't solve the issue.

But I'm rambling. As you can see I'm a mess right now, so any and all advice as to what the hell I should do now would very much be appreciated. Thank you
 
Last edited:
Caporegime
Joined
22 Nov 2005
Posts
42,725
Location
Newcastle Upon Tyne
You have the 8pin and the 24pin connectors on the motherboard right?
are you sure the connectors from the PSU are fully inserted and clicked into the motherboard?
Try with only one stick of ram inserted and double check your using the correct ram slots in the manual. make sure the ram is fully clicked in too, some boards you have to use more pressure than you might expect
You do have a fan connected to the CPU fan header? not sure if its an issue on modern boards though.


Does your case have metal stand offs? like this
0d8cxVm.jpg


if theres an extra one behind the board where the board has no screw hole it could be causing a short, they screw off the case.

if your case doesn't have a motherboard speaker you could buy one from amazon or wherever
oHzLObm.jpg


Your motherboard could be trying to make beep codes to help you identify the issue.
I don't think many cases come with a speaker these days. I've been using the same speaker for about 15 years, only my first case had one :S



BTW try hitting the power button and as soon as the fans start spinning hit the rest button. I once had a pc that wouldn't boot from a cold start but hitting the reset button at the right time would make it boot.


I think it was something to do with a voltage test motherboards do when they power up and my psu being weird :S
 
Last edited:
Associate
OP
Joined
4 Feb 2022
Posts
20
Location
United Kingdom
are you sure the connectors from the PSU are fully inserted and clicked into the motherboard?
I'd put the motherboard with cpu installed on a cardboard box or whatever, connect the PSU and bridge where the power button connects to your case with a screw driver

Do you have a fan connected to the CPU fan header on the motherboard? I'm not sure if it would cause an issue though


Does your case have metal stand offs? like this
0d8cxVm.jpg


if theres one where your motherboard doesnt have a screw whole and it's touching the back of your board it could be causing a short circuit. you can screw any extra ones off the case.


you do have the 8pin cpu power from the PSU connected to the motherboard as well and the 24pin?
I believe the connectors are fully inserted. Should there be an audible or... touch based click upon them hitting home? I make sure they look as uniform and flat as possible, and the clip seems to move as if it's correctly in place, but I don't tend to feel any kind of click at all. It looks like it's okay. (Scratch that. I specifically took out both cables and pushed them in, and found an audible click in both cases. It still doesn't turn on, however.)

I am not 100% sure what you mean by "bridge where the power button connects to your case". The case itself came with all the wires pre-connected, I just plug them into the motherboard. Should I be able to unplug them on the case side, and bridge the gap there? just a bit confused on this one.

I have tested the motherboard both with and without the CPU fan connected. At present it's not connected - I wanted to ensure that everything that could theoretically be removed from the motherboard, has been, to narrow down the list of possible contributing factors for the computer not functioning. The only thing that is actually connected to the board right now, besides the wires I mentioned, is the CPU chip itself - and that's only because I've previously tested it, and I know its pins are particularly fragile so I wanted to avoid moving it around where possible.

The case does have metal standoffs. I did wonder if it was something to do with the case itself, so I have dismounted the motherboard and it is sitting on a clean surface right now, not touching the case in any place except for the power wires.

I had not originally plugged in the second 8-pin CPU cable to the PSU. However, attempting to turn on the board with both cables attached still results in it turning off after half a second.
 
Associate
OP
Joined
4 Feb 2022
Posts
20
Location
United Kingdom
Okay, wait, I remembered my gsce science class on how circuits work and I understand what you mean now. I bridged the two prongs of the power button socket. With the power LED wires still connected, the light turns on and flicks off the same as when pressing the button as usual. I also noticed a very faint high pitched electrical whirring from the PSU. It is a quick flash of that sound, and then off again.

Doing the same without the case connected at all still brings the same flicker of sound, then silence. No other way of telling if it's working without the LEDs to clue me in but it sounds just the same.

Also, I should mention that when I press the button, and the pc turns on/off, it takes a few seconds before pressing the button responds again. Kind of as if there's a battery that's drained and needs a moment to charge back up? That's the first analogy that came to mind anyway
 
Caporegime
Joined
22 Nov 2005
Posts
42,725
Location
Newcastle Upon Tyne
I am not 100% sure what you mean by "bridge where the power button connects to your case". The case itself came with all the wires pre-connected, I just plug them into the motherboard. Should I be able to unplug them on the case side, and bridge the gap there? just a bit confused on this one.
I edited that out of my post but I meant where the case headers connect to the motherboard
you can just bridge the power -+ pins with a screw driver fora split second and it's the same signal as when you press the power on button
3DQJRAz.jpeg

so you don't kill your self those ones where the power button connects but make sure you check and know which pins your touching
 
Caporegime
Joined
22 Nov 2005
Posts
42,725
Location
Newcastle Upon Tyne
you can do a basic test with a paperclip on a PSU btw
just make sure your doing the correct pins if you try it.
but I doubt 2 PSU would be faulty and it's only a basic test anyway.

you have the PSU set to the correct voltage if it has a switch between 110 and 220v?


Ideally you need someone else with a PSU and compatible motherboard for your CPU who can help you test properly
 
Associate
OP
Joined
4 Feb 2022
Posts
20
Location
United Kingdom
You have the 8pin and the 24pin connectors on the motherboard right?
are you sure the connectors from the PSU are fully inserted and clicked into the motherboard?
Try with only one stick of ram inserted and double check your using the correct ram slots in the manual. make sure the ram is fully clicked in too, some boards you have to use more pressure than you might expect
You do have a fan connected to the CPU fan header? not sure if its an issue on modern boards though.


Does your case have metal stand offs? like this
0d8cxVm.jpg


if theres an extra one behind the board where the board has no screw hole it could be causing a short, they screw off the case.

if your case doesn't have a motherboard speaker you could buy one from amazon or wherever
oHzLObm.jpg


Your motherboard could be trying to make beep codes to help you identify the issue.
I don't think many cases come with a speaker these days. I've been using the same speaker for about 15 years, only my first case had one :S



BTW try hitting the power button and as soon as the fans start spinning hit the rest button. I once had a pc that wouldn't boot from a cold start but hitting the reset button at the right time would make it boot.


I think it was something to do with a voltage test motherboards do when they power up and my psu being weird :S
Replying again to the edited comment as well as your most recent one.

Yep, both wires connected.
Ram has been tested before, I'll do it again now though for the sake of utility. Right now there's none connected and the motherboard still doesn't function. At the time I tested the ram in both different slots, but yeah they're definitely correct. The motherboard has a little guide above the slots explaining which are first.
As answered before, tried both with fan on and off.
Huh, I never knew speaker wires existed. I saw the slot for it, but I for some reason assumed it more meant, speakers built in to the case for game audio or something. Now that I know one exists, though, I'll definitely see about getting one.
Actually I have an old dead pc that I know for a matter of fact has a speaker. I've heard it. It's a veeery old pc so I don't know if it'd even be compatible, but it seems like a universal enough thing. I may see if I can make use of it. Otherwise, definitely going to be investing in one. Having a better explanation to what problem might occur would be amazing.
The reset button thing is interesting. Either the board powers off too quickly for me to reset in time, however, or it just doesn't work for me.

I also responded earlier to my first comment, mentioning that I managed to work out what you meant and detailing results. Just in case you missed that

Honestly? I did the papercilp test on the first PSU and it seemed to work, so I wouldn't be surprised if this one also did. I can hear it whir into action whenever its powered, too, even if only for a few moments, Also no voltage switch on this PSU
 
Soldato
Joined
14 Nov 2006
Posts
2,536
Location
Shoeburyness,England
youll have to excuse me for not reading all this thread.

ok do you live near Southend I could have a look , it could be CPU or motherboard , graphics card even SSD or memory, did you try a single memory in all slots ?
Motherboard with only g card , single memory in all slots once at a time and cpu with no drives connected and jump started it to see it gets into bios?
Have you tried the m2 drive in the lower slot?
A lower powered PSU would still post.

to diagnose properly you would need spare proven working components to test it.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: sg0
Top Bottom