Mot Failure?

Soldato
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Hi All,

just replaced front and rear discs and pads on the subaru outback, Oil, Brake fluid and coolant and noticed these bushes not looking too healthy. It's got an mot due on 23rd just wondering if these will most likely be fails. Seems the other side of the car has all new parts and this side not so guessing the previous owner just replaced bits as they failed. If these are failures are they easily replaceable by myself or judging by the look of them better to give that headache to the local mechanic.

Thanks

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Associate
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Unless there's excessive play in the anti-roll bar drop link or bottom ball joint, then I'd say no it won't fail (the dust covers look ok from the pics).
The anti-roll bar "D" bush looks fine, and assuming there's no excessive movement then it should be fine as well.
 
Soldato
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Was about to say looks okay to me, for what's it's worth.

Then I noticed the first reply you got, I think the guy is an actual MOT tester for a living so your probably not going to get a better reply than that.
 
Soldato
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You may have to replace the whole AR bar if I remember correct I think the bushes are hard fixed onto it.
 
Soldato
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Yeh already had to bend the plate back as its falling apart and one side has already been removed by the previous owner. Will get the grinder out at some point and cut it off.
 
Soldato
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Passed by the skin of its teeth by the looks of this report. I still have the back discs and pads to redo again. Looks like I need to factor in brake pipes at some point and a good few other things :p

Front Tyres are 4mm at outer edge as the tracking is off and they had slow punctures. Annoying as middle tread is like new.

Screenshot-2022-06-01-130244.jpg
 
Soldato
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Doesn't look all that bad to me to be honest. Work with sorting the bits like tyres, fix the CV boot before it knackers the joint. The exhaust leaks might not be a terrible job to repair. Brake discs being worn/pitted/corrded isn't a big deal, it's obviously passed the brake test and from your pictures above I'd say it was just some surface rust. The brake pipe, worth looking at to see how that looks and possibly replace. The rest of it is probably stuff that will be ok for years to come, deteriatorated bushes aren't doing any harm and the rear subframe corrosion just monitor each year.
 
Associate
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The tester has put a manual advisory (there’s no code after it) on the near side front inner CV boot torn.
First of all there’s a proper advisory/fail for that, and 2nd it should have failed.
There’s 3 options..
Split or insecure, no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (fail)
Or
Missing (fail)
Or
Severely deteriorated (minor defect)



Like Andy said, it’s not as bad as it looks.
 
Soldato
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Spalding, Lincs
The tester has put a manual advisory (there’s no code after it) on the near side front inner CV boot torn.
First of all there’s a proper advisory/fail for that, and 2nd it should have failed.
There’s 3 options..
Split or insecure, no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (fail)
Or
Missing (fail)
Or
Severely deteriorated (minor defect)



Like Andy said, it’s not as bad as it looks.

I don't like that minor defect for cv boots sometimes.. If its got a pinhole in it then I wouldn't call it severely deteriorated.
 
Soldato
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Thanks for all the input. Had it jacked up and had a look. The brake pipe is covered in grease gave it a wipe looked fine but will get a garage opinion. The CV boot / joint. With it looking original is it worth just replacing them entirely with new drive shafts guy said it was about the same amount of work. Tyres I will get some new ones and a 4wheel alignment and checking the castor and toe must be a reason its wearing away the outer edge while inner is like new.

What is the last two never seen that one before Service brake fluctuating.
 
Associate
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Tbh Dave, it doesn't mean a great deal.
It'll be down to the worn rear discs, my guess is there's corrosion on the faces which is giving a slight warped disc like reading on the roller brake tester.
I wouldn't concern yourself, as if it was serious then it would have failed.
I'd put money on the tester being new to the game.
Sometimes it's cheaper to replace the whole shaft rather than just the inner CV boot.
Get a price from Euro car parts.
 
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