Road Cycling

fez

fez

Soldato
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I don't think they'll price match when going through cyclescheme. There was a shop nearby who had them for 1300 but if I wanted to do cyclescheme I'd have to do the pre sale price.

It's partly your fault and the pressure which has got me wanting to get my wheels sooner :cry:

Seeing as you done yours recently. How easy was it to set up? Wondering if I need to get a new fancy track stand pump or if my current one will do it. Probably need to get a better one anyway but just starting to buy bits now. Accepting that I may now not get the tan tyres right away

Getting the tyres on was fine, just make sure you understand how tyres go on. No levers needed with Michelin power road 28s. Start opposite side to the valve and work towards it.

I’ve got a cheapo track pump from 15 years ago I still use and that worked fine. Had to pinch the tyre around the valve a bit to get them to inflate. Left them for a few hours inflated and then put the sealant in through the valve stem using a syringe.

They seem to need pumping up fairly regularly but not sure if that’s the rim or the tyre. My mtb tubeless setup loses far less air.
 
Soldato
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I only have a cheap track pump and inflated my tubeless fine. Just squeezed the tyre around the valve to get them started.
 
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Opinions on the Canyon split-style carbon seat posts? Worth the £185 price tag, I guess so as they're not too far removed price wise from a regular carbon post?
 
Soldato
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I think i might be slowly convincing myself to upgrade my bike. I got my wife a new bike the other week and fitted a mid drive electric motor to it. It's considerably more powerful than her old one, and given it's not (completely) above board. She can absolutely fly up hills without any effort at all.

On Saturday i was killing myself doing 25mph on the flat and she was casually just sat behind me ringing her bell because i was in the way!
 
Soldato
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Would any of you consider still buying a road bike with rim brakes or would you always want to go with disc now?

I’ve found what would almost be a perfect bike for sale locally. Which feels like it’d stop any desire for upgrading for a very long time.

Canyon Aeroad CF SLX with Ultegra DI2 only it has rim brakes.

For me I don’t think it would cause too many issues. At most I ride 25-30 miles and nothing excessively hilly. Although it would be a single bike for year round riding.
At some point I’m moving to Spain and so it’d generally be a much drier use bike which I think is where the difference gets lessened?

I’d also add that I’m not flying down descents either and fairly cautious.

Obviously the question then is why id need such a high end bike but I think we all know the answer to that :p
 
Soldato
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My mate is still on rim brakes on that exact bike and it doesn't slow him down.

I would prefer a rim brake bike to discs as all the benefit you get in the wet is negated with the rubbing that I've found. My front was scuffing out the saddle whilst another guys SL7 was constantly scuffing on the flat a few weeks back.
 
Soldato
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I don't use a disc brake road bike. Sure - in torrential rain downhill I'm slower than people with them but I've coped well enough and those are edge cases. I do like the adjustability of rim brakes on the fly. Easy to get rid of problems for a little less performance by opening up the calipers in event of wheel buckles etc.

That being said I'm not a huge fan of my Propel rim brakes. Complete PITA to get them aligned.
 
Soldato
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Yeah lets no talk about mini V rim brakes, those are the devils work.(second only to chainstay mounted direct mount brakes)

A traditional frame such as Supersix evo, Felt F, Giant TCR, Specialized Tarmac or Cervelo Rx with normal caliper mated to the proper levers is the pinnacle for me.
 
Soldato
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Went out on Sunday to tick off Gospel pass. Probably my last 'big' ride until middle of June as we head to Florida (Disney) at the end of the month for a couple of weeks. With the good form I currently have I wanted a bit of a tester/benchmark before time off the bike (which will also involve too much food!) to then work 'back to' that form/fitness (if I can) before the end of June. that's the plan anyway - as I am really enjoying where I'm at right now and finding it fairly stable and easy to maintain.
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Weather was forecast ok, run out was fairly leisurely - even bumped into a bunch of riders doing a Sportive from Bristol on the way there and got a good tow and chat into Hay before they peeled off for their food stop. As I began to climb the drizzle started - could see clouds above and just knew it was going to get much wetter the higher I went! Not really heavy rain at any point but it made the steeper ramps quite slippery so had no option but to sit and grind/spin them into a mostly headwind. Not a great time up there for me and not really the 'test' I was after. Although still a good 'test' as felt hard! As I dropped down headed back into the sunshine and dried out nicely. Took a bit more of a 'cross country' way back which took far longer than I thought, deep into the 3rd hour then and knew it was going to be at least another hour I had to ration my food and ride relatively easy home. Nice afternoon for it anyway!

I know I need to just get over it and deal with it, but hmmm...
Yes, just do it! Might not be as 'fun' as a normal social club run with all crazy bad cyclists everywhere, but enjoy it for what it is - an organised event on some closed roads that most family/friends and work colleagues have heard of! :D

Minor frustration today.
Cycling into town approaching a left hand turn and a right hand bend afterwards.
I'm on my own in my lane with no vehicles behind and I've been in the middle of the lane for a a decent distance due to the corner coming up and usual protective riding to avoid someone taking the left turn Infront of me.
A bus pulls into my lane to overtake a parked bus in the opposite direction and starts beeping at me and pointing to the edge of the road... Clearly I was in their way, whilst they tried to overtake into oncoming traffic.
Very annoying and just goes to show how much of the 'road hierarchy' has not changed - bigger you are the more you can bully other road users! :rolleyes:

I've seen a full groupset on Facebook for Dura Ace R9170 DI2 for what looks like an absolute steal, but it's all the individual issues/costs that might pop up with buying used and not knowing the details for sorting issues which i'd expect to be needed given how cheap it is!
Define a 'steal'! Didn't really think there would be many deals around without something through friends... Let's just say 12 months ago I considered selling the 8050 FD & RD I have for £300-400 (easily) and would've made a tidy profit... I paid £88 for the RD (new) and £68 for the FD (used) before lockdown prices hit. They where good prices then, but now... Would probably still get £200 for them.

Collecting my first non-mountain bike tomorrow and already planning rides. Lapierre Crosshill - a gravel bike really but seeing as they're just road bikes with fatter tyres this seemed like the place! Be ideal for the commute as I have the option of road or riverside paths to take, and getting out for fitness rides when I dont fancy the big bike.
Hope you're having fun and great use of a gravel bike is a 'do everything' road bike. That's what I use my Specialized Diverge for - it's hardly ever been off road!

Just ranting out-loud to people who may care as my partner doesn't give two you know whats!
With that kinda money getting invested I'd not compromise taking 303's over 404's, if that's what you wanted. Maybe if there was a massive price difference and there's not...!

Seeing as you done yours recently. How easy was it to set up? Wondering if I need to get a new fancy track stand pump or if my current one will do it. Probably need to get a better one anyway but just starting to buy bits now. Accepting that I may now not get the tan tyres right away
Try mounting with a track pump, your tyre choice will determine your luck with this. If you fail, then just get a friend/LBS to do for you.

My 303 S mounted some Pirelli P-Zero TLR 28mm by hand, easily with a track pump. I would hope most of the newer/modern Zipp rims would be similar! My older (alloy) 30 Course are a little more tricky (as every tyre is tight).

I have most of the other tools needed for some previously stubborn tyres & rims, but it's pretty nice not to need them (sometimes)! If you struggle then grab a co2. if that doesn't work get an LBS to do it, unless you're stubborn and have the time & want to learn yourself (like me)!

Opinions on the Canyon split-style carbon seat posts? Worth the £185 price tag, I guess so as they're not too far removed price wise from a regular carbon post?
Unsure how good they actually are at what you're looking at them for - vibration dampening, impact dampening, big shock dampening. Although they look pretty good and a fair amount better on the eyes than what I'm using. There are lots of other options - https://road.cc/buyers-guide/best-shock-absorbing-seatposts - https://www.bikeradar.com/features/...-seatposts-tested-in-the-lab-and-on-the-road/ (great comparison - but quite old now - pre-'gravel'! :cry:)
 
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Soldato
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Define a 'steal'! Didn't really think there would be many deals around without something through friends... Let's just say 12 months ago I considered selling the 8050 FD & RD I have for £300-400 (easily) and would've made a tidy profit... I paid £88 for the RD (new) and £68 for the FD (used) before lockdown prices hit. They where good prices then, but now... Would probably still get £200 for them.

Well it was a full Dura Ace 9170 disc groupset (excluding chain) for £750
 
Soldato
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I noticed in the last couple of rides that my front pads (disc brakes) were catching. As pads wearing out, in theory at least, I would expect to be further away from the disc rather than catching on them, I thought maybe I just need to stick my tool in... and separate the pads. I did that today and at first, the brake didn't work at all. A little pumping and they came back, but are catching again... quite badly too. Spin the front wheel lightly and it stops after a rotation or two. The LBS are really busy, but have squeezed me in for Friday. I'm just getting the whole calliper replaced as the bolt holding the pads in would need drilling out anyway.

Also, can an old cassette ever cause creaking under strain, or is that always going to be the bottom bracket? I've just replaced the cassette (and chain) as it was closing in on 5,000 miles is all... but might not get to test the bike too thoroughly before RideLondon. If it's going into the LBS, I could ask them to have a quick look at the BB too?
 
Soldato
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Yeah, that was my concern. It was local to me, but i still wouldn't know what i was looking for in all honesty.

I think i've accepted it's not a smart move, especially since any slight issues would be costly to resolve.
 

fez

fez

Soldato
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I noticed in the last couple of rides that my front pads (disc brakes) were catching. As pads wearing out, in theory at least, I would expect to be further away from the disc rather than catching on them, I thought maybe I just need to stick my tool in... and separate the pads. I did that today and at first, the brake didn't work at all. A little pumping and they came back, but are catching again... quite badly too. Spin the front wheel lightly and it stops after a rotation or two. The LBS are really busy, but have squeezed me in for Friday. I'm just getting the whole calliper replaced as the bolt holding the pads in would need drilling out anyway.

Also, can an old cassette ever cause creaking under strain, or is that always going to be the bottom bracket? I've just replaced the cassette (and chain) as it was closing in on 5,000 miles is all... but might not get to test the bike too thoroughly before RideLondon. If it's going into the LBS, I could ask them to have a quick look at the BB too?

Disc callipers can get "sticky" over time and the pistons no longer smoothly move through the calliper. I just bought a second hand set of dura ace levers/callipers and did my usual trick of pumping the lever a lot to push the pistons out as much as possible without them popping completely, cleaning them with cotton buds dipped in mineral oil and then cycling the pistons in and out a lot.

I find that a good sign your callipers need a bit of attention is that the left and right pistons come out at very different rates.

When it comes to cassettes, yes they can creak. If the cogs are pinned to each other its quite common for them to start creaking eventually.
 

fez

fez

Soldato
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Yeah, that was my concern. It was local to me, but i still wouldn't know what i was looking for in all honesty.

I think i've accepted it's not a smart move, especially since any slight issues would be costly to resolve.

Ive found a lot of people on FB marketplace are dodgy and the item appears local and then when you look at their profile they actually live somewhere miles away. Honestly, for that money something would have to go seriously wrong for it not to be a deal still. The main issue is that I reckon you would find out that they want to post it and its a scam.
 

fez

fez

Soldato
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Yeah quite possibly. Although I did go with a very cheeky £700 offer and it was declined!

Looks like it’s gone now anyway so the point is moot!

 
Soldato
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Yeah quite possibly. Although I did go with a very cheeky £700 offer and it was declined!

Looks like it’s gone now anyway so the point is moot!
:cry:Typical Facebook or Gumtree... complete, massive, ridiculous bargain... let me offer under the asking :cry:

It's not a split pin holding the pads in?
Nope. I did wonder, the only people that have worked on this bike is this LBS, I wondered if they're the ones that have put this bolt in that then needs drilling out!

Tbf, I've google'd them, looks normal to have a bolt.

Related note, how easy is it to bleed brakes and replace a calliper yourself?
 
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